Which Insecticides Get Rid of Flies & Insects?
Getting rid of crawling and flying insects is not always possible without the help of insecticides.
There are many insect control products available on the market, toxic and non-toxic, which can be divided into different categories depending on their mode of action against the insects (click on links below).
Rest assured that Owl Pest Control will guide you to find the best suited Flies and Insect killing products for your needs.
Natural / Non-toxic Insecticides or Monitors (slower action)
Chemical Insecticides (faster action)
1) 100% Natural Insect Powders (non-toxic)
Natural insect dusts such as “Diatomaceous Earth” (DE – a natural clay) affect the insects not chemically but physically, so there is no issues with “resistance” to the product. This chemical-free natural clay is made of silica fragments from diatoms, which look like microscopic shards of glass.
As all insects have a wax protection on their body to prevent internal moisture from evaporating, contact with the silica causes scratches to the legs and abdomen, damaging the wax and eventually causing death by desiccation.
DE is very safe for humans and is often added to animal feed to kill worms in their body (e.g. roundworms, whipworms, pinworms, and hookworms).
2) Natural Organic Liquid Insecticides
In recent years, people are becoming more aware of chemicals and prefer to use natural organic insecticides where possible. It is also a necessity for organic farming.
Several products containing pyrethrin, a natural insecticide derived from the pyrethrum plant (Chrysanthemum cinerariaefolium) are now available in Ireland for professional use.
It is cost effective and highly effective against a wide range of insects, but only for several hours so application should be targeted and repeated more frequently than with chemical residual insecticides.
Unfortunately there are no amateur-use natural pyrethrin insecticide currently available for amateur/domestic use.
3) Sticky Pads Insect Monitors / Detectors (non-toxic)
Insect Monitors are made of a cardboard coated with a sticky substance, on which some biological mating scents called “pheromones” may be added to attract insects to the glue trap.
Monitors are an excellent way to find out if you have an insect infestation, or if insect activity persists after a treatment. They can also be used to help reduce or eliminate a small infestation.
4) Fly Traps (non-toxic catching devices)
Fly trap bags generally contain an attractant made of food and feed additives that is mixed with water.
After a week or two the non-toxic bait is activated by heat & sunlight and the trap works best. Flies are attracted to the scent, enter through the top part funnel, get trapped and drown into the liquid.
Fly trap bags require no maintenance and each of them can catch up to 40,000 flies, making them a great help in outdoor areas.
5) Chemical Insect Powders (or Insect Dusts)
Insect powders can be sprinkled in areas were insects can be seen. Insect dusts are the most “residual” of insecticides, i.e. they remain efficient for a long period of time, providing they are not removed (hoovering or washing) and remain dry. “Chemical powders” contain ingredients which affect the nervous system of the insect after it comes into contact with the dust.
The downside of insect killing powders is that they make white stains, look very obvious on carpets, wooden floors and tiles. Most importantly, particles can easily be inhaled by sniffing cats and dogs, or become airborne with drafts. For these reasons insecticide dusts should preferably be used outdoor or in wall / floor voids.
6) Liquid Insecticides (Residual)
Most liquid insecticides are classed as “residual insecticides“: after drying they leave a film which will kill insects and remain effective for some length of time, depending on the formulation, the condition of the surface (greasy, wet, etc.), and the type of surface (e.g. concrete, wood, soil, etc.).
Pyrethroid pesticides (permethrin, cypermethrin, allethrin, etc.) are highly toxic to insects but only of slight toxicity to mammals, and are hence a preferred choice for use around the house.
7) Gel Bait Attractant (ants)
Insecticide gel baits work by combining a slow-acting poison with an attractive food source. Insects such as cockroaches or ants eat the bait and also take some back to the nest to feed the youngs. As the insecticide element is slow-acting, it leaves time for the colony to share and consume the bait, achieving complete eradication.
Most modern cockroach gels are very efficient. Unfortunately ant gels do not always work, as some colonies may or may not like the food ingredient. On another hand, if an ant colony is completely eradicated using gel bait, it is likely that no ants will be seen for several years, which is never happening with traditional residual insecticides.
8) Fumigant Insecticides
For indoor use: Smoke generators work by releasing fumes which kills insects it comes into contact within an enclosed area. Smoke generators or “fumers” are used as a quick solution to kill flying insects, especially if the ceiling is high up or the infested areas are hard to reach (e.g. small attics). They leave only minimal residue so it is important to remember that new flies can reinfest after the fumes have gone. Also note that the smoke only kills the adult form and not the larvae or eggs.